Verkostungsnotizen
Vinous 89
(56% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 4% petit verdot; 13% alcohol): Bright ruby-red with an amber rim. Captivating aromas of red cherry, minerals and flowers. Very refined flavors of red- and blackcurrant, minerals and violet. Finishes long and clean, with a zingy minerality, polished tannins and building sweetness. Unfortunately, I have also had a poor bottle of this wine recently (showing animal notes and astringent drying tannins), so it may well be that this wine should be consumed fairly soon. I remember Philippe Dhalluin telling me many years ago that this wine reminded him of the 1988 made at Branaire-Ducru (which he always liked), but that he found that the ’98 had a suaver character; I’m not so sure. Only 50% of the crop went into the grand vin, as in 1999 and 1997; prior to these vintages, almost two-thirds of the wine made at Branaire-Ducru went into the estate’s flagship bottling.
Robert Parker 89
Rather closed on the nose. Very concentrated on the palate, which possibly lacks some subtlety. Wild strawberry and pencil-lead. Lots of ripe Merlot in this: powerful and masculine. A charming irresistible wine that seems not dissimilar to the 1997. Tasted October 2001.
